Tuning the clutch







Remove the secundary chain cover.



First operation : Slacken off the midway cable adjuster fully to allow the nipple
to be detached from the handlebar lever and slip it out of the hole in the lever.



Second operation : Open both throttle and air controls fully. Select neutral
position of the gears and depress the kickstart against compression and test for clutch slip.
If the clutch is felt to slip omit third operation and carry on with fourth operation.
If no slip can be felt carry on with third operation.

Third operation : Using the clutch adjustement peg (A 6 mm diameter, 10 cm
long, pin on which metal is removed on a 6 mm lenght as described) pull
the rear wheel backward a quarter of a turn at a time checking for clutch
slip after each movement. This will involve taking out the adjusting peg
from engagement with the clutch spring holder before each test.
As soon as the clutch can be felt to slip (and only just slip), proceed with
fourth operation.

Fourth operation : Refit the cable nipple to the handlebar lever.
Re-adjust the midway adjuster until all lost motion is taken out of the cable
and the cable and the lever is just drawn up against the lever bracket on the
handlebar. Do not force the adjuster but only just remove all play. When correct
tighten the cable adjuster locknut.

Finally, refit the adjusting peg to the sprocket, engage it with the clutch spring
holder and pull the rear wheel forward a little at a time until free movement
begins to appear on the cable when the handlebar lever is checked.

Adjust until there is free travel on the cable of 3 mm to 5 mm.

The adjustement is now completed.


Nota : If it is impossible to successfully perform the third operation because the clutch is permanently slipping when moving the rear wheel,
select the second gear and move backwards the rear wheel (adjusting tool in place) until the clutch no longer slips.





Home page

Back to list of tips